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Siderata help in the fight against weeds, fertilize the soil and saturate it with useful substances, prevent the development of weeds. These wonderful plants are planted throughout the summer cottage, periodically mowing and alternating among themselves. If chosen correctly, they can be ideal predecessors and neighbors for tomatoes.
Rye and oats
Grain crops enrich the soil with useful organic matter, as well as phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen. The effectiveness will increase if root crops, onions or garlic have been growing in the garden before. For more saturation of the soil, it is better to sow rye and oats mixed with peas. These green manures are suitable for sandy, clay, peat and chernozem soils. The strong root system of oats loosens the soil, thus making it easier for moisture to reach nearby plants. Also, its roots contain a substance that suppresses various harmful bacteria and fungi. Rye and oats are sown from April to September. Harvesting can be done when the first spikelets appear. The green part is cut off, crushed and embedded in the ground, so that useful humus is formed as soon as possible.
The plant contains calcium and natural antiseptics, so that alfalfa will not only fertilize neighboring tomatoes well, but also eliminate harmful bacteria. The optimal time for planting is spring. Best of all, alfalfa will take root after corn and root crops, on well-plowed land. As a fertilizer for tomatoes, green mass is used, which is mowed and crushed.
The strong root system of rapeseed loosens the soil and prevents weeds from growing. In addition, its roots contain essential oils that repel pests and protect against diseases in crops growing in the neighborhood. Rape in a short time restores soil fertility, enriches it with phosphorus, sulfur and organic matter. This green manure can be planted in autumn or spring. Rape does not like too heavy and moist soil, grows poorly after clover and cruciferous plants. The herbaceous part of the plant is mown when it reaches a height of 25-30 cm. Further, the green mass is used as fertilizer, similar to other green manures.
Mustard will drown out the growth of weeds and darken tomatoes. It will scare away pests and protect plants from diseases. Mustard seeds can be sown from spring to fall. After mowing and burying, the ground will be ready for planting the main plants in two weeks, or you can place the mustard next to the tomatoes. 5-7 weeks after the tomato seedlings are planted in a permanent place, green manure seeds are sown in the aisles. When the mustard grows to 15-20 cm, the green part can be cut and put on the beds. It is not necessary to bury it, as it decomposes quickly. Mustard grows quickly, so mowing can be done several times per season.
Radish grows well in different soils, has a strong root system and loosens even heavy soil. It will give high shoots in a short time and slightly shade the tomatoes, in addition, it protects against diseases, including late blight. Since the radish easily tolerates low temperatures, it can be sown both in spring and autumn, until mid-September. Flowering will begin in 30-40 days, you need to have time to mow the green manure before this moment. After that, the green part is crushed and embedded in the ground.
Siderata: when to sow and bury (plow in)
Author: Natalia Category: Garden plants Published: 09 February 2019 Last revised: 06 January 2021
- What are siderates
- When to sow green manure
- Spring sowing
- Growing green manure in summer
- Planting green manure in the fall
- When to bury (plow in) green manure
- The best green manure plants
- Winter green manures
- Siderata for potatoes
- Comments (1)
Life on Earth began with plants and thanks to them continues to this day. Plants live to create life. Their leaves provide a shade that does not allow the sun to burn out the earth, form compost on the surface of the soil, their roots protect the soil from erosion and transfer, turn the soil into fertile soil, their dead remains feed worms and microbes that accumulate nitrogen in the soil. Plants create soil. The earth could not exist for a day without plants.
The task of agriculture is to make the land, to give it more than to take from it, and in the implementation of this task, the main helpers of farmers are plants. To improve the composition of the soil, restore its structure and enrich it with nutrients, plants called siderates are used in agriculture.
How to use vermiculite for growing seedlings
Despite the large number of useful properties and the entire permissible range of applications of the material in question, in most cases vermiculite is used for growing seedlings and transferring them to open ground as gently as possible. At the same time, the raw materials remain so easy to use that even the most inexperienced summer resident can cope with the task at hand.
Tomatoes and peppers
Usually, gardeners use a double concentration of vermiculite to germinate seeds, mixing it with one part of the soil from the site. Indeed, this proportion allows you to achieve a good result in the shortest possible time. But if you want to do everything according to the rules, then it is better to take into account the type of culture that is brought up from scratch.
And if, for example, we are talking about tomatoes and sweet / bitter peppers, then it is better to take not in quantity, but in quality, using no more than 25 percent of the aeration material from the entire volume of the substrate.
At the same time, as the latter, it is strongly recommended to use the lightest soil mixture with a high content of peat, allowing fragile sprouts to freely break through to the surface.
Cucumbers and cabbage
It is noteworthy that similar recommendations are also relevant for growing cabbage seedlings, while for cucumbers the amount of vermiculite can be increased to 50% of the total substrate volume.
Vermiculite has many beneficial properties that have the most beneficial effect on plants grown on site.
It is worth noting that the same concentration is often used for germinating pepper seeds, which will easily adapt both in a 25% concentration and in a substrate prepared in equal parts of vermiculite and peat soil mixture.
Petunias and other flowers
It is no secret that growing petunias and many other annual crops in ordinary soil is notoriously bad business. And again vermiculite comes to the rescue, and with it clean river sand, perlite and other auxiliary materials that can retain moisture for a long period. In addition, since the seed of petunia cannot boast of excellent germination, it makes sense to resort to the use of various growth stimulants that can deactivate the mechanism that blocks the further development of the planting material.
It is also worth paying attention to a rather common mistake of novice gardeners, who perceive the high hygroscopic properties of the mineral as a reason for unnecessary watering.
Meanwhile, vermiculite works according to a completely different scheme, not only absorbing moisture, but also giving it back to the root system of crops grown on the site for a long time.
Soil green manure methods
- Complete fertilization. The biomass is buried in a thickness of 3-6 cm. They are used together - both roots and shoots.
- Mowing fertilizer. Mow the green biomass and close up.
- Aftermath fertilizer. Only the root parts are used. The above-ground part is cut off and used in another area or for the formation of compost piles.
The sideration method ensures the introduction of the necessary elements, prevents the depletion of the fertile layer.
Green herbs are used in the form:
- Natural organic biomass. To do this, they are plowed into the surface layer.
- In the form of humus or compost. Mixed with fallen leaves, tops of waste and composted.
- Like mulch. Mowed stems and leaves are laid out in the beds.
- As a liquid fertilizer. Bionastoi are prepared on the basis of fermentation for 8-10 days.
Types and varieties of annual lupine
Annual lupine, as we have already mentioned, is successfully used both in fodder and green manure culture. There are now about 20 varieties of lupine in the State Register, so there is definitely something to choose from.
Scientists have found that lupine, during its growth, for its own defense, produces a significant amount of alkaloids, that is, nitrogen-containing substances that protect their host (plants), and these, in turn, quite effectively inhibit and can even suppress the development of various pathogenic bacteria, kill the nematode , get rid of root rot.
White lupine (Lupinus albus)
It is very drought tolerant and does not require pollinators, but adores warmth. This lupine cannot be called a baby, it can easily stretch two meters, and the length of its inflorescences reaches three tens of centimeters. As soon as flowering is over, its fruit (bean) immediately begins to form, each of which contains from three to six snow-white, cuboid seeds.
Varieties are most often used as a green manure. Desnyanskiy 2 (this is a more improved variety from Desnyanskiy, which was obtained back in 2003), and Gamma and Degas... The remaining eight varieties, which are included in the State Register, are also good, but they usually go to feed livestock, because they accumulate very little or do not accumulate alkaloids at all. White lupine has, however, a drawback: it loves constant loosening of the soil, poorly tolerating the soil crust and will not refuse fertilizing with potassium sulfate (10-15 g per square meter 2-3 times with incorporation into the soil).
Lupine narrow-leaved (Lupinus angustifolius)
It is also a plant that does not require pollination, but a lower one and a half meters is the limit for it. Despite the fact that they call it blue, the inflorescences of this lupine may well be pink, pale white, and of course, purple and actually blue. The seeds are often round, but if they sell you barrel-shaped seeds, don't be alarmed, they can be that too, which is perfectly normal. The main thing is to take a closer look at the seeds, they should have something resembling a marble pattern. Lupine narrow-leaved as a green manure is often used, it is surprisingly unpretentious and winter-hardy, grows quickly and does not require additional feeding.
Most often, its varieties are used as siderates: Siderat 38, Benyakonsky 334, Pink 399, Benyakonsky 484, Nemchinovsky blue, Knight, Crystal, To snow, Rainbow, Belozerny 110, Hope, Change, Narrow-leaved 109 other. Often these varieties are used as green manure and are used as feed for farm animals because of their high nutritional value. The only exception is the variety Siderat 38... The fact is that during its cultivation, an interesting fact was discovered: in the roots it contains derivatives of ethyl alcohol and, for obvious reasons, such plants do not go to livestock feed.
However, when grown as a green manure crop, this variety simply has no equal, it grows actively, and noticeably quickly increases both the aboveground mass and the root system. If we compare yellow lupine and this variety, then we can highlight clear advantages over resistance to cold weather, including in the late spring periods. It can grow on highly acidified soil types, gradually neutralizing them year after year.
It is also interesting and very valuable that this type of lupine takes more nutrients from the lower layers of the soil, therefore, in fact, you do not need to wait for the complete decomposition of the vegetative mass after plowing, there is enough nutrition for the plants in the upper layers of the soil.
Yellow lupine (Lupinus luteus)
This plant is a typical "crossroads", not tall, usually no more than a meter in height. Its inflorescence resembles a spikelet, yellow or light orange in color. Fully ripe beans sometimes contain up to five beige seeds, less often with a small speck, which many mistake for a disease.
If we compare this lupine and narrow-leaved lupine, then we can say that yellow is much more thermophilic, so even in order for its shoots to appear, it needs at least 12 degrees of heat, although it can endure recurrent frosts, having withstood from four to six degrees of frost. This lupine also needs watering, at least once a season in the amount of a couple of buckets per square meter of soil, and lupine will grow better on sandstones and sandy loams, improving them. Most often, these varieties of such lupine are grown here - Gorodnensky, Siderat 892, Academic 1, Kastrychnik, Motive 369, Torch, Prestige and Peresvet.
White lupine (Lupinus albus) Lupine narrow-leaved (Lupinus angustifolius). © Ghislain118 Yellow lupine (Lupinus luteus). © marce
Big trees are the best green manure! Why are they needed even in a small area for growing vegetables?
I'll start from afar. To begin with, we will determine the optimal size of the site for the full use of natural methods in the cultivation of environmentally friendly products. I don’t remember the source of this information, but I know that the production of environmentally friendly products is possible provided that the actively used area is no more than 5% of the area of the entire site. Thus, the territory in 95% of untouched nature restores 5% of the territory actively used by man. And here we define the meaning of the word ecology - this is a science that studies the interaction of all living organisms that inhabit the Earth, as well as their numerous communities, both among themselves and with their environment.
If we translate the word "ecology" literally from ancient Greek, then we get "doctrine, science about home, dwelling." Some scientists call ecology the science of good neighborliness. With which I completely agree. Then the phrase "environmentally friendly products" can be understood as products grown, obtained in a clean house, in a clean environment. However, the word "clean" is often associated with the word "sterile". Nature cannot be sterile, therefore, I propose to apply the definition of ecologically sound for products grown in natural conditions and with the use of PP.
Let's go back to the optimal size of the plot. Let's calculate the area of the plot for a family of 4 people. A house with outbuildings will occupy 50 sq.m and more. The area of greenhouses will be from 20 sq.m. The vegetable garden (beds with paths) will occupy about 300 square meters, plus the same plot for growing potatoes. Let's add here an artificial reservoir or a pool with an area of 5 sq.m. We will not include the area occupied by fruit trees in the calculations, we assume that trees grow between beds or beds are located between trees. In total, the area of actively used territory is at least 675 sq. M. Let's round up to 7 acres for even counting. Taking into account the data about 5% and 95%, the area of the entire site will be at least 14,000 square meters or 1.4 hectares. As you can see, the numbers obtained are quite popular: 6 acres is the area of the garden plot and 1 hectare is the area of the family estate.
Garden plots were allocated to the townspeople to provide their families with food of their own production. The area of 6 acres was considered optimal. However, there are cases when plots with an area of only 3 acres were allocated, on which it was impossible to erect buildings, except for household ones, for storing tools. But gardeners by hook or by crook built residential houses and even baths on such plots. Currently, the construction of cottage and summer cottages is gaining momentum, the area of plots in which is 10-15 acres.Such plots are used both for year-round living and as a summer residence with a small vegetable garden and a garden.
About 20 years ago, the movement of the Anastasievites began, who propose to use plots of about 1 hectare. The site is proposed to be used not only for growing food, but also for creating a kind of natural space and life in this space. It is quite possible to grow ecologically valuable products on such a site. With a further increase in the size of the site, subsistence farming is possible. Abroad, such sites are called permaculture, i.e. areas of continuous agriculture. And the size of such plots is in the tens or even hundreds of hectares. As you can see from this little analysis, the size of the lot depends on its purpose.
Let's move on to examining the trees directly growing in summer cottages and garden plots. As a rule, fruit trees are grown - apple, pear, cherry, plum, hazel. In the southern regions, we add apricots, peaches, cherries, mulberries, walnuts, and other types of nuts to them. In addition to trees, bushes also grow - fruit and berry and ornamental. I will not list them, there are a lot of them, and I will definitely miss something. In addition to fruit trees, forest species can also be found in some areas: cedar, spruce, pine, fir, juniper, thuja, birch, maple, willow, mountain ash, etc. But they, as a rule, have a miniature, decorative shape.
About 25-30 years ago, fruit trees on a dwarf rootstock were very rare on the market. Basically, apple trees, pears were tall - they grew up to 8-12 m in height. I have 4 similar trees growing on my site now. Summer residents and gardeners are focused on purchasing, and the market successfully offers, seedlings of undersized fruit and ornamental crops. There are several reasons for this - ease of care and harvesting, less shade in the vegetable beds, as well as on the neighbor's plot.
Let's compare the size of fruit trees with trees of comparable size in the forest. Even 8-meter trees in the forest are undergrowth, trees of the second and even the third tier. The tallest trees in the forest reach a height of 30-40 m. This is the first tier, and the rest, including fruit trees, grow under the canopy of these trees. Examples are old Circassian gardens in Adygea, wild apple and pear trees in Belovezhskaya Pushcha, wild apricots and plums in the Ussuri taiga.
Thus, we come to the concept of forest garden. Pears and apple trees grow in Belovezhskaya Pushcha for 160 years, which no one cuts or forms, but they bear fruit every year, and their crown does not overgrow. Perhaps this is due to the fact that growing in the shade of trees of the 1st tier, fruit trees independently form their crown and normalize the harvest. Perhaps the overgrown crown of an apple tree in an open space thus tends to shade itself?
Timiryazev K.A. in his London lecture "The Cosmic Role of the Green Plant" he wrote that assimilation only at relatively low light voltages increases in proportion to the amount of light, but then lags behind it and reaches a maximum “at a voltage approximately equal to half the voltage of a sunbeam falling on a leaf in the normal direction ".
A further increase in tension is no longer accompanied by an increase in light assimilation. On a bright sunny day, the plant receives an excess of light, which causes a harmful waste of water and even overheating of the leaf. Therefore, the position of the leaves in many plants is edge to the light, especially pronounced in the so-called "compass plants". Even in central Russia there is an excess of sunlight, as Timiryazev spoke about. This is not an excess of heat, but an excess of light.
Some more advantages of a forest garden. Under the canopy of trees of the 1st tier, a milder microclimate is created than in an open space: in summer it is cooler, in winter it is warmer, there is no harmful effect of strong wind. Leaf litter of broad-leaved crops creates the most fertile soil. The deep roots of many forest trees make all the necessary mineral elements available to fruit crops. Wider biodiversity makes it possible to take full advantage of the benefits of natural farming, including protection from diseases and pests.
Hopefully the significance of tall trees is clear. The question remains - how to use tall trees on plots of 6-10 acres? What is the density of their planting? I was guided by chestnuts, oaks, nuts, cedars. For normal fruiting, such trees require an area of 1.5 to 2 acres per tree. Accordingly, 3-4 such trees can grow on a plot of 6 acres, on a plot of 15 acres - from 7 to 10.
They will have to be located closer to the center or to the southern side of the site, so as not to cast a shadow on the neighbors. Under them and on the north side, we plant decorative, fruit and berry crops, and on the south side - a small vegetable garden. It is necessary to take into account the growth rate of the aforementioned tree species - it is quite low. And to get the result faster, you can choose auxiliary fast-growing species - ash, poplar, maple, larch, Douglas, pine, to the south - Paulownia, sycamore, cherry, mulberry.
Particular attention should be paid to broad-leaved species, because the rate of formation of a fertile layer in a broad-leaved forest is 100 times higher than in a coniferous one. Subsequently, these trees can be cut down, or cardinal pruning can be carried out, leaving a bunch of branches on the top of the head. Process the cut branches on a shredder and mulch with these chips of the garden. To cut down a tree is a matter of five minutes, and to grow it takes years, decades, and even centuries. This must always be remembered and taken into account when drawing up a site plan.
There is one more condition without which the expected effect cannot be obtained. It is necessary to convince all neighbors and members of the garden or dacha partnership about the need for tall trees on the site. If this condition is fulfilled, a kind of energy dome will be created over the territory of the entire partnership, which is well described in issue 11 (124) for 2017 of the newspaper "To the Earth with love!" For me personally, this is the most difficult condition.
When communicating with the current generation of gardeners who manage on plots of up to 15 acres, they are more interested in personal well-being, comfort than social benefit. And older gardeners are not interested in growing trees that will give results only after a dozen years. It is necessary to take into account the height of a lonely standing tree and trees of the same species in the forest. A lonely standing tree will be 1.5-2 times lower, but its crown will be wider. The proposed measures for growing tall trees in garden plots will allow to grow something in between on the garden massif - it will be open woodland with sufficient lighting for vegetable crops.
Life does not stand still, and quite recently new knowledge became available to me, which I propose to use as a basis for planning the newly created gardening associations. In the old days, people settled along the low bank of the river. This gave many advantages: the river bed was the main transport artery, easy access to water facilitated the care of crops, provided domestic and wild animals with water, people could hunt and fish. The settlement territory along the river was conditionally divided into several zones:
1. River bed 2. River floodplain - an area that is flooded during high water 3. Field - the area used for growing cereals, melons and other agricultural crops, for grazing livestock, can be flooded during particularly heavy floods4. The grove is an area overgrown with bushes and rare trees. On this territory, residential and farm buildings were located, berry and fruit bushes and trees were grown5. A forest is often an impassable area overgrown with tall trees.
Thus, for the cultivation of agricultural crops, people used 2 zones: the Field and the Grove. Between the Field and the Grove there was a road called the outskirts. On the outskirts there were gates and gates from the courtyards of the settlements, thus, the outskirts connected them to each other. This layout has survived in rural areas, only the outskirts are rarely used and it has almost disappeared, even from conversations, and more often they use the street, which the "faces" of houses look at. And from the grove there are individual trees that grow near the houses, as a reminder of the past. My proposal is this: to revive the groves in the countryside - to plant trees (fruit, berry, forest crops) between buildings and in front of houses.
I propose to use the same principle for the planning of newly created horticultural associations. The layout will be "striped": field-grove-street. In this case, the width of the "grove" strip must be at least half the width of the "field" strip. And the stripes should not be straight, but taking into account the terrain. "In a meander," as Holzer says. Meander is a river in ancient Greek. Again, the river, after all, in ancient times people understood the interconnections in nature more. I understand that such a layout is unusual and time consuming when designing. But it gives advantages in the form of protection of sites from wind and water erosion, the creation of favorable microclimatic zones, eliminates the "usual" problems - the fight against plant diseases, pests, weeds and a decrease in soil fertility.
It is easier to grow tall trees on plots with a size of 1 hectare or more, also because the owners of the plots are mentally prepared for such actions. On plots tens of hectares in size, the so-called alley agricultural production is used, where vegetables and grain crops are grown in the alleys between plantings of fruit and broad-leaved trees. The width of the alleys depends on the size of seeders, mowers and other agricultural units with which the area is processed. Leaf litter of trees, as well as chopped cut branches of fast-growing species are used for mulching vegetable beds.
In conclusion, I will give an explanation of why it is impossible to grow ecologically sound products using only FH techniques, such as mulching and sowing green manure. Let me explain with my own example. Our family was allocated a garden plot 30 years ago in the forest. The forest was young: on the site there were 2 fir trees with a trunk diameter of 20-25 cm and a mass of young lindens, aspens, birches, maples with a trunk diameter of 5 to 15 cm. Once upon a time there was a felling area on this site. After stubbing, the yield was fabulous. Garden strawberries grew so much that they did not know what to do with them - they were distributed to relatives and friends.
After 3 years, the yield became noticeably lower, the strawberries began to be sold, and after 7 years the yield decreased so much that they themselves were not enough. The same story for potatoes. For 11 years now I have been restoring the fertility on my site, destroyed by nineteen years of digging. Over the years, not only micro-, but also macroelements were removed from the arable soil layer - a dust-like structure of gray color was obtained. Now imagine the fertility of the plots that were allocated to gardeners in the fields plowed for decades. Practicing FZ, I came to the conclusion that mulching with grassy organic matter, litter, wood chips is not enough.
Even if the mulching material is mined in other, unplowed areas. Yes, the fertile layer has increased to 15 cm, but if there are no trace elements in the soil, then they have nowhere to come from. Therefore, suppliers of trace elements are needed - plants, preferably perennials, with deep roots, to deliver trace elements from deeper horizons, for example, dandelion and birch (loach). Broad-leaved trees with deep roots and a large amount of leaf litter are best suited for these purposes. You can, of course, use special preparations to provide plants with microelements, but this is not a natural method.
Ryabov Andrey, Center for Natural Agriculture, Izhevsk
In addition, trees are highly developed and accumulate more complex and useful substances, and their fruits are more suitable for highly developed creatures - people - than vegetables! Wood mulch attracts fungi, which, due to mycorrhiza and gibbelin hormones, increase the area of nutrition, growth, and immunity and early maturity of any plants many times - an apple tree seedling can bloom under sawdust mulch in the 1st year, and cedar - in the 5th!
Perhaps there is not a single gardener in Russia who would not grow tasty and healthy tomatoes on his site.
Of course, you can buy them in any store - imported, bright, large, but devoid of that unique aroma that you can inhale only by picking ripe, fresh fruits from your garden.
Tomatoes grown in their beds and in greenhouses are rich in vitamins and many useful substances. No wonder they are included in many diets for sick people with different diagnoses.
But with purchased ones, you need to handle with great care. The fact is that a tomato, like no other vegetable, is capable of accumulating in itself all the chemicals with which its bushes were treated - both chemical fertilizers and pesticides from pests and diseases.
Therefore, in the best case, market and store tomatoes will not do you much harm, but they certainly will not be of any benefit!
That is why it is so important to grow this vegetable in your garden.
But here the amateur gardener faces many problems. And the most important of them is the choice of a suitable variety when buying seeds. Now in the store you will be offered such a rich assortment of types and varieties of tomatoes with completely different characteristics and purposes that you can simply get confused.
But the timing of sowing tomatoes for seedlings is fast approaching. Tall and late varieties are to be sown in late February - early March (depending on your soil and climatic zone).
And a novice gardener is generally lost, chooses for a long time, and then, with a wave of his hand, buys everything. And this is not correct!
Everyone loves tomatoes, but everyone has their own taste and other preferences.
In addition, for each species, there are characteristic features of growing seedlings, and then the bushes themselves in protected ground and in open beds under the film.
Considering all of the above, in this article we will try to guide you by the types of tomatoes, as well as present our best varieties and hybrids, so that you can order them on our website or in the "SEEDS 2021" catalog today.
WHAT YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT GROWING TOMATOES
We have talked about this many times in our blogs and we recommend that you read our published articles again:
In these articles, we talked about the beneficial properties of tomatoes, about the history of the emergence of cultivated varieties, about the various types of this crop and the peculiarities of its cultivation, and also gave in detail all the agricultural technology of this crop.
Today it is important for us to guide you on the best tomato varieties so that you can make the right choice and buy exactly those species, hybrids and varieties that interest you most.
We wish you a successful sowing campaign and high yields of your favorite tomatoes!
THE BEST VARIETIES AND HYBRIDS OF TOMATOES FROM OUR COLLECTION
We present to you our best varieties and hybrids, which, of course, will delight you with their amazing taste, real "tomato" aroma and high yields in any weather anomalies.
The legacy of Vladimir Vasilyevich Stepanov (our rare varieties)
You are unlikely to find these varieties anywhere. These are “golden grains” of folk selection, which for many years throughout the country were collected by a wonderful person, an outstanding scientist and breeder Vladimir Vasilyevich Stepanov.
Thanks to him, you can plant a rarity on your site that none of your neighbors or acquaintances has.
This entire collection, assembled by Vladimir Vasilievich, is truly priceless. Try to plant these varieties, and you will see for yourself.
Unique Italian varieties and hybrids, "northerly" for our climate.
Italy has long been famous for its tomatoes. No dish is complete without this vegetable. Over the years, we have selected and tested the best Italian tomato varieties, accustoming them to their northern climate.
And today we have a whole collection of amazingly sweet, aromatic, weather-resistant Italian varieties that we are pleased to present to you:
Stunning sets "Golden Raspberry Miracle" (three episodes)
This is a gift for novice gardeners, as each series consists of five different determinant (limited growth) varieties with unusually tasty and aromatic fruits of different sizes.
These varieties do not require pinching the bushes and form the required number of brushes themselves. In addition, these are the most unpretentious of all varieties.
Each of the giants you grow with good care can reach 1.5 - 2 kg of weight. These tomatoes are tastier and more aromatic than others. One is enough for a whole family's lunch:
These tomatoes are intended for growing in glass, film or polycarbonate greenhouses:
Open field tomatoes
These varieties and hybrids tolerate sudden temperature changes and prolonged rains. However, we recommend that when growing them outdoors, place plastic arches or a wooden case over them so that at any time the tomatoes can be covered with transparent film.
Every gardener knows that when the air temperature drops to + 13 degrees, the growth of tomatoes stops. They kind of fall asleep.
Therefore, we recommend that you cover your plantings with a film already at a temperature of + 15 degrees, fixing its ends well at the edges so that cold air does not enter the room.
These varieties and hybrids have increased stress resistance to all weather anomalies and grow equally well in an open garden and in a greenhouse. They are unusually tasty, aromatic, and are distinguished by a high content of vitamins and nutrients:
This is our author's series for each group of vegetables, where we have included the most elite varieties and hybrids, which, in our opinion, surpass all other varieties in unsurpassed taste, high yield, stress resistance and resistance to almost all pests and diseases.
In addition, they are the most unpretentious, shade-tolerant and do not require additional care:
They are very reliable and most stress-resistant outdoor determinant varieties. They are not afraid of either cold or heat. They continue to grow and bloom at a temperature of 12 degrees. With these varieties, you will always have high yields of delicious, aromatic tomato fruits.
The great advantage of supertomatoes is that they never get sick at the genetic level and are very rarely affected by pests.
Tomatoes for long-term storage
These varieties and hybrids are the latest achievement of domestic and foreign breeders. The fact is that they received the so-called "long-term storage gene", which allows them to calmly lie down in cool places of your house or apartment until the New Year holidays.
Another advantage of such tomatoes is that they are never affected by "tomato" diseases, and in December they look as if they had just been plucked from the bush. At the same time, they do not lose their very strong aroma characteristic of fresh fruits:
Tomatoes against cancer!
It's hard to believe in this miracle! However, breeders managed to bring out three hybrids of tomatoes, the composition of which in large quantities (9.5 times more than in other vegetables and fruits) contains the most powerful antioxidant carotenoid - lycopene.
Lycopene destroys cancer cells in the human body (if they appear there) and prevents their formation (if they are not there).
At the same time, this powerful antioxidant dramatically lowers the level of cholesterol in the blood, normalizes the work of the cardiovascular and hormonal systems of the body, gives a person health and the right to a long life!
Remember these three hybrids are the best cure for cancer:
Many gardeners prefer this particular type of tomato. They look great on any dish as a decoration, taste very good, ripen early and can produce fairly high yields.
Most of all, cherry tomatoes are loved by kids. Even collecting them from a short bush is a great pleasure for them.
Our varieties and hybrids of cherry tomatoes are very tasty, aromatic, and, moreover, rarely get sick and are affected by pests:
We do not forget about the best old, proven varieties. Many gardeners grow them year after year in their greenhouses. Therefore, we have prepared especially for you:
Tomatoes for the balcony.
We have not forgotten those gardening lovers who do not have their own piece of land, and they are trying to grow vegetables on their balconies or loggias.
Not very large, bright, multi-colored tomatoes will be a great help to the dining table and will also perfectly decorate your apartment.
We have selected for you the best varieties and hybrids of balcony tomatoes:
You can read more about all of the above varieties and hybrids of tomatoes on our website or in the SPRING 2021 catalog.
And you can order them from us today.